![]() ![]() The other, more common reason is for speedy changes. Yea, I know, how are you supposed to focus and compose in that situation, but it does happen. For some goofy reasons, I want to shoot down on say a flower or bug and I need the camera up a bit higher than a normal viewing position. I like a tripod with a center post for a few reasons: 1) Sometimes I need the camera to be above my head, and 2) Speedy changes. ![]() inserted upside down allowing your camera to hang below, you can achieve the same result although your pictures will be upside down requiring a flip in post processing. If the post can be pulled out and reinserted up the bung hole er…. If it has a center post, the post must be able to get out of the way so you can get down low. The tripod legs must at least extend straight out so the tripod can lie flat. If you will shoot macro, you will appreciate a tripod that can contort itself into stupid, unnatural positions. Check out the associated pics here and see the wacky ways I have used my tripod. I like to use a 2 second shutter delay which is just enough time for any shakes or sways to stop. It settles down quickly with heavier loads like long zoom lenses. Not only is carbon fiber lighter than aluminum, it stays comfortable to touch in cold weather, and damps resonances and jiggles. Image stabilization can mitigate any shutter squeeze related jiggles so sturdiness is just not a high priority for me. If I mount a heavy lens, I use either the two second shutter delay on my camera, or an infrared remote trigger such as the Canon RC-6 either of which allow the camera to settle and shoot fine. Oh sure, we all want an infinitely stiff and light as air tripod, but I have found that virtually all of the name-brand tripods I found in the stores to be adequate when it comes to sturdiness and no tripod is “like a rock” anyway. Actually, my priorities are slightly different so below are the items most important to me: The usual list is light, small, sturdy like a rock, extends large, flexible, etc. I have a very heavy Canon 500mm lens and that has a whole different set of requirements. Note I wrote basic as in your everyday, most used tripod. I am hopeless.īelow is a list of what I value in a basic tripod and head. Squeezing a shutter sends my neurons and muscles into bizarre spasms. Image stabilization is a gift from on-high but even with these amazing systems, I still mess up photos from moving. ![]() I use tripods for a huge percentage of the photography I do. Update: I wrote a piece about choosing a ball head or pistol/joystick head. Will easily hold a 5 LB load without slipping, and if they made a tripod as flexible as the Manfrotto, I would use all Slik equipment. Consider one of their plain ball heads instead.Įrgonomic and intuitive design while being super easy to squeeze. They are heavy, hard to squeeze and twist around, and can slip with a heavier load like a 5 LB load of DSLR and zoom lens. Manfrotto Pistol Heads – They are OK but no more than that.I love this tripod as it is light, super flexible, and will fit into my airline luggage. Manfrotto 190CXPRO4 Tripod – Pure Carbon Fiber Heaven!.But I thought I can give you some tips and insights about some of the equipment I own to help you make a better decision before you shell out big bucks for a coupla tubes of aluminum or plastic. ![]() Look, I am a flaming amateur not an equipment reviewer. Some “How to Buy” Tips for Tripods and Pistol Heads ![]()
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